Despite news of rising employment rates and other positive economic indicators, the recession is still very much on everybody’s minds. The Fall 2009 collections that debuted last spring are interesting snapshots of the fashion community’s take on where we were then and where we would want to be this fall. The general consensus is that designers handled the gloom in one of two ways: through extravagance or a more staid conservatism. This, as with any binary system, is a gross over-simplification, and many designers mixed these two elements in one collection.

As far as silhouettes go, we’re still seeing a serious emphasis on the waist (small) and shoulders (big), with many designers taking cues from the ’40s and ’80s. It’s interesting that these periods were both also immediately following recessions. While they shared this highlighted silhouette, the decades took two different approaches to decoration and color, and inspirations from both have come through in the clothing offerings for this fall.

There was a huge emphasis on suiting, with jackets and coats galore. Jackets and coats were well represented, with jackets alternating between cropped, boxy styles seen at Fendi, DKNY, Commes des Garçons; long menswear and tuxedo inspired, seen at Dries Van Noten and more ’40s style cinched waists with peplums (the part at the bottom of a jacket that flares out), low necklines and structured shoulders, both long and short.

Favored materials for the most part were fairly practical, but used to interesting and innovative effect. Heavy wool pleated and folded at Prada, canvas cargo jackets and trenches at Comme des Garçons layered over blanket-fleece ponchos, jerseys and knits used by almost everyone. There was also a whole lot of leather; designers using it both as a grounding device and to punk things up a bit.

Not so practical was the emphasis on see-through fabric, lingerie-inspired looks and plunging necklines. Many designers used the natural openness of a lapelled jacket as a way to highlight cleavage and, on many models, ribs. As in the Yves Saint Laurent line, these openings are very narrow — they contribute a sensuality to a masculine staple without being overtly sexual or impossible to wear in public legally. The same cannot be said of some of the other looks, including a tiny black thong worn under black hosiery chaps with a T-shirt and jacket at Jean Paul Gaultier.

The boudoir look also appeared in the exquisite use of lace by Stella McCartney, who inserted it in draped panels in several of her dresses as well as on sleeves and straps, and in various designers' undergarment choice. McCartney showed her deep V necklines with skin-tone lace bras, while Miu Miu showed their peaches and beiges with triangle bras of similar colors. Miu Miu, for example, showed their peaches and beiges with triangle bras of similar colors. Balenciaga went for black lace bandeaux instead, using the bra as another element of the look that added texture and color. Lanvin, in turn, chose to forgo bras altogether and showed nude breasts under sheer blouses, almost always high-necked and long-sleeved.

The thing to remember about runway looks is that they’re not always meant to be taken literally. Some looks (whole outfits plus accessories) can definitely be worn in the real world (although not necessarily our real world, but you know what I mean). And there are absolutely individual pieces that you and I can imagine wearing (or are dying to wear!). Most of the other elements, like the plunging necklines, can be adapted; one can choose to wear another shirt under the see-through one, or to fill the neckline of a jacket with a scarf or a big necklace. The number one job of designers and their runway shows is to be inspiring and visionary. Then the machinery of the rest of the industry kicks in and interprets, tweaks, refines, revises, tones down, simplifies and re-sizes the very fabulous ideas we see in Paris, London, New York and Milan.

So, there you have a brief overview of what’s informing the merchandise in stores and online right now for our purchasing pleasure. I believe we can say that fall is now upon us, so there will certainly be more from me on staying warm, stylish and beautiful throughout these next few months. Some advice till next time: enjoy the foliage and always carry an umbrella!