On my first day at Cornell, curious to see the various restaurants and stores in the area, my family and I took a walk around Collegetown. As we wandered, my brother suddenly remarked, “Their food is so good. I didn’t know they had one here but you should definitely go if you get the chance.” I whipped around to see which restaurant my brother, who typically holds very high standards for what he considers “good food,” had just praised. I was met with a grey, concrete building, with the words “Xi’an Street Food” above the door.
I decided to take my brother’s suggestion and try Xi’an Street Food, but with a twist: I would conduct a comprehensive assessment of the restaurant by ordering and rating five of the most popular items on the menu.
I pushed open the door at 6:30 p.m. on a Friday night and instantly realized I’d need to keep a keen eye out for an open table. The restaurant was packed, conversation bouncing from table to table as diners eagerly awaited their food. Every couple minutes, a new order number was announced and staff would rush by with a tray of steaming, aromatic food. I stepped to the side to place my order on the kiosk: pork dumplings, braised beef hand noodles, a stewed pork bun, spicy cumin lamb ripped noodles and cold skin peanut noodles.
Pork Dumplings: A
As an avid dumpling fan, these effectively satisfied my cravings. The dumpling wrapper is a good texture — pleasantly chewy and bouncy, with a good ratio of filling to dumpling so that the dumpling neither falls apart nor looks flat. The pork itself was flavorful and slightly salty, balancing the relatively neutral taste of the dumpling nicely. The dumplings fall on the blander side, but they come with chili oil, which eliminates this issue while adding an extra kick of flavor. Ultimately, I would highly recommend this dish, especially for dumpling lovers.
Braised Beef Hand Noodles: A+
The beef in these noodles was the star of the dish — soft and braised perfectly, so that it falls apart at the first bite. The beef flavors the broth that the noodles rest in, transmitting the flavor to the noodles in the process. The noodles themselves are unique in the way that they are ‘hand-ripped,’ or handmade. This involves stretching out dough into long and flat strands and then cooking it, resulting in a thicker noodle. The more neutral taste of the noodles add a nice contrast by offsetting the beef flavor without overpowering it. I also appreciated how they offer the option to customize the spice level for their noodle dishes — depending on my mood and spice tolerance, I could choose from ‘mild’ to ‘very hot.’
Stewed Pork Bun: B+
The pork in this bun is similar to a pork floss — a stringier, drier kind of pork. It is salty but not overpowering. The bun itself is chewy, and instantly turns soft when bitten into. The bun is definitely on the plainer side and adds no flavor of its own to the sandwich — its main job is to complement the pork that it holds, but the bun could be improved further if some oil, scallions or salt were added to the dough. Nevertheless, the bun and pork together make a satisfying combination.
Spicy Cumin Lamb Ripped Noodles: A-
The lamb in this dish is chewy but a relatively tough meat, especially when compared to its braised beef counterpart. The lamb also has an extremely strong flavor, emphasized by the cumin in the dish. This flavor is even more pronounced if a high spice setting is chosen, and for that reason I would recommend choosing a lower spice level if a milder taste is preferred. Since I like lamb, I enjoyed the bold flavor, but this could be unappealing to people who do not have such a strong affinity for lamb. That being said, the lamb’s strong flavor does not transfer into the noodles, which remain relatively neutral. Overall, this dish is a flavor powerhouse that stimulates the taste buds, and a must-get for lamb lovers.
Cold Skin Peanut Noodles: B
True to its name, the noodles have a subtle peanut flavor that is definitely noticeable but not overpowering. This is a plus, as I was able to appreciate the noodles’ flavor independent of the peanut flavor. The crunchy bean sprouts in the dish add additional texture, contrasting the chewiness of the noodles nicely. The bean sprouts do not capture much flavor themselves, but are mainly for highlighting already existent flavors and creating variety. Unlike all the prior dishes, this one is served cold. For this reason, these peanut noodles are refreshing to eat and can be a good choice for summer.
Upon receiving my bill, I concluded that the dishes I ordered were well worth the price. For example, the braised beef was priced at about $15, and the dumplings came to $6. One noodle bowl is filling, and along with a small side, diners can expect to leave with a full stomach — all for slightly more than $20. Even at peak hours, service is fast.
Based on its five most popular menu items, my dining experience and value, Xi’an Street Food is a must visit for Cornell students — perfect for any lunch, dinner or late-night snack.
Angelina Lei is a sophomore in the College of Human Ecology. She can be reached at al2733@cornell.edu.
