This last month in fashion marks a long-coming shift in industry trends. Since the debuts of new collections at the fashion weeks in New York, Milan and Paris respectively, we can officially declare that haute couture is moving away from long-reigning quiet luxury and is opting for more dramatic, colorful and eccentric choices. Across those three cities, different brands have showcased how they are reflecting the changing times through their creative decisions.
Who can we start with other than Ralph Lauren? This is a company that has eternally capitalized on its quiet luxury feel. It has heritage, style and taste in one. If the trends are moving away from its very essence, what can Ralph Lauren do? Adapt. Ralph Lauren hasn’t completely dismissed its quiet luxury feels, instead the brand has taken this season to incorporate more interesting color, texture and material choices. Suedes, furs, leathers — all utilized in ways that the brand has not done so before. This collection focused on more interesting design shapes and aesthetics. Yes, there was still this sense of minimalist appeal, but now with a twist. This feels like the start of bold experimentation that will maintain the brand’s position in the luxury market.
Even Bottega Vennetta, (under the creative direction of Louise Trotter) home of Italian quiet luxury, has made a bold statement. Its fashion showcase started off with the usual monochrome outfits, sharp suits, leather accessories and coats. Suddenly, feathers, furs and unconventional knitwear were the most interesting and shocking aspects of the collection. Models came strutting down the runway with fur prints and the most unorthodox silhouettes you can think of. The normally stiff designs that carry weight and control as symbols of composure have been replaced with fluid and dynamic fabrics that make it impossible to look away. Bottega Vennetta has preserved its cool luxury appeal but has replaced its stiff and unbending heritage with the dynamic and energetic trends that dominate this season. That is a beautiful ability to adapt to changes in demand while also preserving what the brand has always stood for. This collection fascinated me, because it was not too over the top, and balanced well with the more quiet luxury feel of the brand. The colors added a much needed diversion from the usual monotone palette that Bottega Vennetta is known for.
Loewe’s choice of color, shape and texture has now crossed the border into absurd — the good kind of absurd. Under the creative direction of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, Loewe features fur trims and perfectly calculated cut-outs. The brand showcases both class and timelessness. It follows on the heels of the Spring/Summer 2026 show, which already had the beginnings of these eclectic color choices to differentiate Loewe from competitors who favor a monochrome or more muted palette. At the same time, the use of even more unorthodox silhouettes has allowed them to distance their brand image even further from the former couture obsession with quiet luxury. This change, however, is too bold for me. The bright colors, I can get behind, but some of the silhouettes felt quite absurd.
Where would we be if we did not discuss Schiaparelli, the hegemon of unconventionality, depth and creativity? The drapery, the ombré color schemes, the intricate and selective beading all partnered with iconic gold accessories and key motifs. Under the direction of longstanding creative director Daniel Rosberry, Schiaparelli delivered what can only be called a class act. The silhouettes are not as exaggerated as some of the other creations for this season, however the textures, colors and flow of the fabric is phenomenal. The way it all comes together with cut outs, little gold detailing is phenomenal. While the designs themselves are not nearly as daring as other designers’, what they are made of is very bold and reminds us why Schiaparelli is a fashion titan. Personally, this was by far my favorite collection from this season. It synthesized both boldness and simplicity in a gorgeous array of designs that personally captured my attention.
Finally, there was Prada. This season, the more traditional, ‘play it safe’ styles have been swapped out for the most unconventional color and texture combinations along with the addition of long socks on most of the models strutting down the womenswear runway. Utilizing some of the bright colors of the season, such as teal and wasabi green, the creators of both the womenswear and menswear collections abided by trends and conventions. While Prada has always balanced between more loose fits and sharp clean lines, it seems that this season is much more about unique and unexpected pops of color paired with meticulous layering and selective accessories. This season of Prada, personally, felt very bland to me. Regular objects paired with bold colors did not appeal to me. Instead it would have been better if there had been more experimentation with shape and silhouette.
Of course, discussing haute couture is fun and all, but what can we non-couture wearing fashion lovers adopt for this upcoming season? Color-wise, there is a huge shift to more interesting colors such as teal, deep purples, intense reds and electric greens. In terms of silhouettes, this is the time for nonconformity. Broad shoulders, Victorian ruffs and layering different fabrics and textures are going to be the newest craze for this upcoming fall and winter. Basically, the trends are leaning toward more unique pieces, not just the monochrome that has been dominating the last few years.
